Château d'Yquem

Premier Cru Supérieur de Sauternes

The Pinnacle of Sweet Wine

In the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux wines, only one estate received a distinction beyond Premier Cru Classé. That singular honor — Premier Cru Supérieur — belongs to Château d'Yquem alone.

This is not merely historical accident. For nearly four centuries, Yquem has defined what is possible in winemaking: wines of such concentration, complexity, and longevity that a single glass can outlive the person who pours it. Bottles from the 19th century still drink beautifully. The 1811 vintage scored a perfect 100 points when tasted at 185 years old.

Such wine demands patience, reverence, and understanding. What follows is a guide to one of civilization's most remarkable achievements.

History & Heritage

The Lur-Saluces Legacy

The d'Yquem estate traces its lineage to 1593, when Jacques de Sauvage acquired the property from the French monarchy. But its modern identity began in 1785, when Françoise-Joséphine de Sauvage d'Yquem married Count Louis-Amédée de Lur-Saluces, godson of Louis XV. The Lur-Saluces family would steward the estate for over two centuries, establishing the uncompromising standards that define it still.

Thomas Jefferson, serving as Minister Plenipotentiary to France, visited the château and wrote admiringly: "Sauterne. This is the best white wine of France and the best of it is made by Monsieur de Lur-Saluces." He ordered 250 bottles of the 1784 vintage for himself, and additional bottles for George Washington.

The 1855 Classification

When Emperor Napoleon III commissioned the classification of Bordeaux estates for the Exposition Universelle de Paris, Château d'Yquem stood so far above its peers that a new category was created: Premier Cru Supérieur. No other sweet wine, then or since, has earned this designation.

It was not sentiment. It was recognition of measurable superiority: lower yields, more rigorous selection, longer aging, and wines that could survive a century or more.

The Modern Era

In 1996, after a bitter family dispute, LVMH acquired controlling interest in the estate. Some feared commercialization. Instead, the luxury conglomerate invested heavily in preserving every tradition that made Yquem exceptional. Alexandre de Lur-Saluces continued as manager until 2004, when Pierre Lurton of Château Cheval Blanc took the helm.

The standards remain absolute. In poor years, the entire crop is rejected and sold anonymously. No vintage was released in 1910, 1915, 1930, 1951, 1952, 1964, 1972, 1974, 1992, or 2012. The wine exists only when it can be worthy of its name.

The Art of Noble Rot

Yquem's greatness stems from botrytis cinerea — "noble rot" — a fungus that shrivels grapes, concentrating sugars and acids while adding layers of complexity impossible to achieve otherwise. The château's hillside position and microclimate make it uniquely susceptible to this controlled infection.

The result looks repulsive: ash-coated, desiccated berries that seem ruined. In the hands of Yquem's pickers, they become liquid gold.

Uncompromising Selection

  • Harvests average six passes through the vineyard
  • Only perfectly botrytized berries are selected — individual berry selection
  • Yields average just 9 hectolitres per hectare (versus 12-20 for typical Sauternes)
  • A glass of Yquem represents the production of one entire vine

The wine is aged for three years in 100% new French oak barrels and never released en primeur. It leaves the estate only when ready.

In most years, this discipline produces approximately 65,000 bottles. In bad years, it produces nothing at all.

The Vintages

Legendary Historical Bottlings

1811 — The Comet Vintage

Produced in the year of a great comet, this wine achieved immortality. When Robert Parker tasted it in 1996 — 185 years after harvest — he awarded a perfect 100 points. In 2011, a bottle sold for £75,000 ($117,000) at The Ritz London, making it the most expensive white wine ever sold.

It remains drinkable today.

1921

Considered one of the finest vintages of the 20th century. A benchmark for what Yquem could achieve during the Lur-Saluces family's stewardship.

1847

Part of the legendary 1860-2003 vertical sold in 2006 for $1.5 million. Still alive after nearly 180 years.

Modern Masterpieces

1967, 1975, 1983

Outstanding vintages from the mid to late 20th century. The 1975 particularly shows the combination of concentration and structure that defines great Yquem.

1988, 1989, 1990 — The Trilogy

Three consecutive vintages of transcendent quality, each with distinct character:

  • 1988: Early botrytis onset created high acidity and electric freshness. Linear and precise.
  • 1989: Hail reduced the crop by 25%, concentrating remaining fruit. A hot ripening period produced broader, richer wines with dried apricot, honey, and nutmeg. Some of the highest sugar levels since 1929.
  • 1990: Considered by many the pinnacle. Stable weather with perfect botrytis development created extraordinary aromatics: caramel, orange blossom, candied peel, marmalade, mandarin. Longer, livelier finish. More complex than the powerful 1989.

For collectors, owning all three is essential. For drinkers, choosing between them is impossible.

21st Century Excellence

  • 2001: Exceptional vintage with classic balance and aging potential
  • 2003: Hot year, concentrated fruit, opulent style
  • 2009: Modern classic, widely acclaimed, still developing
  • 2015, 2017: Recent vintages showing extraordinary promise

Serving Recommendations

Temperature & Presentation

Serve Yquem at 10-12°C (50-54°F). Too cold and the aromatics disappear; too warm and the alcohol dominates. Remove from the refrigerator 15-20 minutes before serving and allow it to gradually warm in the glass.

Use small to medium white wine glasses with a tulip shape to concentrate the aromatics. A single 750ml bottle serves 8-12 people easily. Pour 2-3 oz per person.

Decanting

Older vintages (30+ years) may benefit from gentle decanting to remove sediment. Stand the bottle upright for 24-48 hours before opening. Decant slowly and carefully — Yquem does not need aggressive aeration like red wine. Very old vintages (50+ years) may be too delicate to decant at all.

Younger vintages rarely need decanting.

Food Pairings

Yquem should be sweeter than the food you serve with it. This principle guides all successful pairings.

Classic Combinations:

  • Roquefort and blue cheese: The gold standard. Salty, pungent cheese meets sweet wine in perfect balance.
  • Foie gras: Traditional French pairing. Rich, fatty liver balances the wine's intensity.
  • Lobster and shellfish: Surprisingly excellent. The wine's sweetness complements the natural sweetness of crustaceans.
  • Roasted poultry: Especially with fruit-based sauces.

Dessert Pairings (careful selection):

  • Fruit tarts (apricot, peach, apple)
  • Crème brûlée
  • Almond-based desserts
  • Avoid: Chocolate (too bitter), very sweet desserts (compete with the wine)

Unconventional Pairings:

  • Spicy Asian cuisine (Thai curries, Vietnamese dishes)
  • Salty cured meats (prosciutto, jamón ibérico)
  • Fried chicken (savory-sweet contrast)
  • Aged Comté or Gruyère

Many connoisseurs prefer to serve Yquem alone, as its own course. The wine is the dessert.

Investment & Market Value

Current Market Pricing

  • Recent Vintages (2010s-2020s): $250-$500 per 750ml bottle
  • Excellent Drinking Window (1990s-2000s): $400-$800 per bottle
  • Mature Vintages (1970s-1980s): $600-$1,500 per bottle
  • Pre-War & Historic (pre-1950): $2,000-$10,000+, condition-dependent

Half-bottles (375ml) typically range from $150-$250 for recent vintages. Magnums (1.5L) command premiums and age more gracefully.

Auction Records

The most expensive white wine bottle ever sold was the 1811 Yquem, purchased for £75,000 ($117,000) in 2011. But the most remarkable transaction came in 2006, when The Antique Wine Company sold a complete vertical — every vintage from 1860 to 2003, representing 143 consecutive years — for $1.5 million.

This was not merely a sale. It was a testament to unbroken excellence across three centuries.

Investment Potential

Yquem consistently appreciates, with great vintages (1989, 1990, 2001) showing 8-12% annual appreciation over decades. The wine exhibits lower volatility than many collectible reds and enjoys strong demand from Asian markets, particularly China.

Key investment factors:

  • Scarcity: Low production, frequently skipped vintages
  • Longevity: Century-plus lifespan means multi-generational holding potential
  • Brand recognition: Part of global luxury culture
  • Provenance: LVMH ownership ensures quality consistency
  • Drinking demand: Unlike speculative assets, Yquem is also consumed, creating natural scarcity

The safest investments are great vintages in magnums with perfect provenance. But even recent releases in standard bottles appreciate steadily.

Storage & Cellaring

Optimal Conditions

  • Temperature: 12-14°C (54-57°F), consistent year-round. Fluctuation is the enemy.
  • Humidity: 60-75% to prevent cork drying
  • Light: Complete darkness or UV-protected
  • Position: On side to keep cork moist
  • Vibration: Minimize — no nearby appliances or foot traffic

Aging Timeline

  • 0-10 years: Can drink, but often austere. Better to wait.
  • 10-20 years: Entering drinking window for most vintages.
  • 20-40 years: Peak drinking for great vintages.
  • 40-70 years: Very mature but can be stunning.
  • 70+ years: Only exceptional vintages survive. Museum territory.

Great vintages (1988, 1989, 1990, 2001, 2009) can cellar for 30-100+ years. Good vintages drink well for 15-40 years. Lesser vintages should be consumed within 10-20 years.

Re-corking

Original corks fail after 40-50 years. For very old bottles, re-corking services are available through select wine merchants and sometimes the château itself. This is critical for maintaining 19th-century bottles.

When to Drink vs. Hold

Drink now if:

  • Special occasion warrants it
  • Vintage is 20-40 years old from a great year
  • Storage conditions have been questionable
  • Bottle shows signs of seepage or damage

Hold longer if:

  • Great vintage with perfect storage
  • You want to maximize aging potential
  • You're curious about evolution
  • Investment return is important

But remember: wine is made to be drunk. The perfect moment to open Yquem is when you have people worthy of sharing it with.

The Defining Characteristic

Yquem is not the sweetest wine. It is not the most expensive (though it ranks high). It is not the rarest.

What makes Yquem unique is balance maintained across centuries.

The acidity that prevents cloying sweetness. The complexity that emerges over decades. The concentration that allows a wine to survive a hundred years and still taste vital. The discipline that rejects entire harvests rather than compromise.

Other estates make great sweet wine. Only Yquem holds Premier Cru Supérieur.

This is not marketing. It is measurable, consistent, observable superiority spanning 241 years of classification and nearly 400 years of winemaking.

A glass of Yquem is not merely a drink. It is a conversation with history, an argument for patience, and proof that some things justify their legends.

"This is the best white wine of France and the best of it is made by Monsieur de Lur-Saluces."

— Thomas Jefferson, 1787